We did arrive safe and sound, well, safe anyway, on August 18th, a week ago. After all that time, 71 days, and all thoise miles, 13,000, we found our house and dog, Tasha, well cared for by Amanda and the yard well kept by Denny, our neighbor. We unpacked the van bit by bit, bag by bag. "Hey, I didn't know we took that", we cried in surprise at what we found at the bottom of the heap. "Oh, there that is", was another phrase we used.
All in all the trip to Alaska and back will be an unforgettable trek, including all the sights we saw on the way out and back. I'm glad that I posted to the blog regularly and had positive responses in the comments and by email and now in person.
Donna has been compiling a photo album, now nearly 200 photos, and she ordered another album because we have over three hundred more in the computer to choose to print. I have a lot of HD video and will be learning how to edit and save in HD format. Videos on the blog were converted to Windows format and edited in Windows Movie Maker on Donna's laptop.
Thank you for following us to Alaska and back.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Cedar Rapids, Iowa - August 16, 2010
Cedar Rapids had bad flooding in June of 2008 when heavy rains swelled the Cedar River that runs right next to the city. The county and city offices were built on islands in the river and have not been reoccupied since. One neighborhood near the river was flooded up to the second floor of businesses and homes. The motel we stayed in had markers up above the first floor doorways to show how high the water had been.
Damaged and repaired homes in that area are being bought by the city and demolished so a new park will take that flood-prone site.
The Quaker Oats Co. in Cedar Rapids is still in business.
Final Stage - August 18, 2010
Here we are, on the NY State Thruway headed home. We were in Norwalk, Ohio for the night after leaving Cedar Rapids Tuesday AM. Not much to post about this part of the trip that last two days. Passing around Chicago was very easy, considering the traffic and highway interchanges we negotiated.
When we visited with Jeremy, my brother, and Selma, his wife, we also saw their children and grandchildren aho live nearby in Iowa.
One night we had a little family music session. I dug out my trombone from underneath everything in the van, and joined two great nieces in performing as atrio of instruments.
Cairo, going into 6th grade, plays tuba and Jetta, going into 5th grade plays harmonica.
Here's a photo. We had fun and I learned a lot about blending in with those two.
When we visited with Jeremy, my brother, and Selma, his wife, we also saw their children and grandchildren aho live nearby in Iowa.
One night we had a little family music session. I dug out my trombone from underneath everything in the van, and joined two great nieces in performing as atrio of instruments.
Cairo, going into 6th grade, plays tuba and Jetta, going into 5th grade plays harmonica.
Here's a photo. We had fun and I learned a lot about blending in with those two.
Monday, August 16, 2010
On the road to Cedar Rapids - August 13, 2010
Leaving Fargo behind we passed over the Red River of the North to Minnesota. This has been the site of flooding in the spring thaws. The Red River flows north into Canada and when the upper, or southern, river melts the northern part can still be frozen and have ice jams. Then the water backs up and floods.
As we drove along I heard that parts of I-35 might be flooded but it was up on I-94 where we saw that a Rest Area was closed. As we went by we could see that the ramp leading down to the waterfront parking area was flooded. There has been a lot of rain here this week.
We saw all around us stormy looking clouds but no rain on us. Closer to Minneapolis we took the bypass route of I-394 to I-35W to I-35. On a Friday afternoon about 2:30 there was a lot of traffic and we went slowly through the suburban area. Once around that we picked up the pace again.
About 6:30 we were in Cedar Rapids and getting supper in the Best Western Cooper's Mill motel. I called my brother and he wanted us to come over that evening and visit with them so we did.
As we drove along I heard that parts of I-35 might be flooded but it was up on I-94 where we saw that a Rest Area was closed. As we went by we could see that the ramp leading down to the waterfront parking area was flooded. There has been a lot of rain here this week.
We saw all around us stormy looking clouds but no rain on us. Closer to Minneapolis we took the bypass route of I-394 to I-35W to I-35. On a Friday afternoon about 2:30 there was a lot of traffic and we went slowly through the suburban area. Once around that we picked up the pace again.
About 6:30 we were in Cedar Rapids and getting supper in the Best Western Cooper's Mill motel. I called my brother and he wanted us to come over that evening and visit with them so we did.
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Fargo to Cedar Rapids, Iowa - August 13, 2010
In the morning we had the complimentary breakfast at the Inn and started off for Cedar Rapids where we plan to stay until Tuesday and visit with my brother, Jeremy and his family. We'll be glad for the break from driving each day and also see the generations that live there.
Our route would take us south-east to Minneapolis/St. Paul on I-94 and then south to Iowa on I-35. Once in Iowa we would go southeast at Clear Lake and on to Cedar Rapids.
Our route would take us south-east to Minneapolis/St. Paul on I-94 and then south to Iowa on I-35. Once in Iowa we would go southeast at Clear Lake and on to Cedar Rapids.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Fargo, ND - August 12, 2010
In Fargo we found our hotel, Best Western Kelly Inn and Suites after going around a long block because of construction. This was the nicest place we stayed so far. Only two years old and decorated like a western lodge, all wooden interior lobby and cowboy stuff all over. All the way from the center of North Dakota, near Bismark we had been seeing increasing clouds and listening on the radio to weather reports about thunderstorms building up.
The sky was cloudy as we went to supper at a restaurant next door to the Inn. While we had our meal the first rain came and then stopped before we finished. Going back to the Inn we went to the van to get a few things as the dark clouds came closer from the north, almost over us.
Back in our room we watched the storm roll in and the lightning and thunder hit right where we were. The rain came down and overflowed the gutters on the roof above us and splashed down to the ground below, we were on the second floor. Something on the roof was booming like stage thunder, some metal sheet flapping or something.
That was an exciting storm to see and nice to be in a safe building.
The sky was cloudy as we went to supper at a restaurant next door to the Inn. While we had our meal the first rain came and then stopped before we finished. Going back to the Inn we went to the van to get a few things as the dark clouds came closer from the north, almost over us.
Back in our room we watched the storm roll in and the lightning and thunder hit right where we were. The rain came down and overflowed the gutters on the roof above us and splashed down to the ground below, we were on the second floor. Something on the roof was booming like stage thunder, some metal sheet flapping or something.
That was an exciting storm to see and nice to be in a safe building.
Cattle Guards
Friday, August 13, 2010
Miles City to Fargo, ND - August 12, 2010
We had breakfast at the motel, The Best Western War Bonnet, with some of the motorcycle riders and other travelers. The tour was only going about 300 miles for the day, not too bad. On the other hand we had 465 miles to go.
Along Interstate I-94 we stopped to get these photos.
Later on we stopped at Teddy Roosevelt National Park which is in the North Dakota Badlands.
Along Interstate I-94 we stopped to get these photos.
Later on we stopped at Teddy Roosevelt National Park which is in the North Dakota Badlands.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Back in the USA - August 11, 2010
Now for the good news: We made it back into the USA at 10 AM. The bad news: none. We did have a 45 minute wait at the border but by the time we got to the customs the officer asked us the usual questions. "Where do you live?" How long were you out of the country?" Are you bringing back any animal hides, pelts, meat; vegetables or grains?"
He had a sense of humor because I got away with saying, "Only the bugs on the front of the car."
The two fugitives that have been at large since late July were thought to be trying to get across into Canada. We heard that sightings have been in St. Mary and Babb, Montana, just outside of Glacier National Park, where we were in late June on our way to Alaska.
In the US the speed limit on the interstate is 75 mph, 70 on the state highways. Traveling south on I-15 to Great Falls, MT, we then went east on US 87 through Grassrange where the route turned south to Roundup. Great names, huh.
At Roundup we got on US 12 to the east through Musselshell, Ingomar and Forsythe. There we joined I-94 to Miles City.
The drive across Montana was awesome, both for the scenery and the isolation. We passed many areas of eroded bluffs and interesting rock formations. Very few homes and almost none of them near the road. Many miles of grazing range land with only a few cattle that we could see from the road.
Here are some scenes that we saw. The rolled bales were roadside cuttings. We saw then all along the Interstates and other highways. Talk about utilizing everything.
Once on the interstate I-94 the scenery remained much the same, except we were further from the shoulder of the road and didn't "splat" as many grasshoppers.
Before we reached the Miles City exit a group of nine motorcycle riders came on and sandwiched us for a few minutes until they all moved ahead and out of view.
When we reached our exit and found the motel we saw a parking lot full, almost, of motorcycles. Their riders had brought out chairs from the rooms to sit in a circle in the parking lot and were busy visiting among themselves. There was at least 30 motorcyles. It turned out it was a group of middle to senior aged men on a tour, complete with a trailer following along.
He had a sense of humor because I got away with saying, "Only the bugs on the front of the car."
The two fugitives that have been at large since late July were thought to be trying to get across into Canada. We heard that sightings have been in St. Mary and Babb, Montana, just outside of Glacier National Park, where we were in late June on our way to Alaska.
In the US the speed limit on the interstate is 75 mph, 70 on the state highways. Traveling south on I-15 to Great Falls, MT, we then went east on US 87 through Grassrange where the route turned south to Roundup. Great names, huh.
At Roundup we got on US 12 to the east through Musselshell, Ingomar and Forsythe. There we joined I-94 to Miles City.
The drive across Montana was awesome, both for the scenery and the isolation. We passed many areas of eroded bluffs and interesting rock formations. Very few homes and almost none of them near the road. Many miles of grazing range land with only a few cattle that we could see from the road.
Here are some scenes that we saw. The rolled bales were roadside cuttings. We saw then all along the Interstates and other highways. Talk about utilizing everything.
Once on the interstate I-94 the scenery remained much the same, except we were further from the shoulder of the road and didn't "splat" as many grasshoppers.
Before we reached the Miles City exit a group of nine motorcycle riders came on and sandwiched us for a few minutes until they all moved ahead and out of view.
When we reached our exit and found the motel we saw a parking lot full, almost, of motorcycles. Their riders had brought out chairs from the rooms to sit in a circle in the parking lot and were busy visiting among themselves. There was at least 30 motorcyles. It turned out it was a group of middle to senior aged men on a tour, complete with a trailer following along.
Lethbridge to Miles City, Montana - August 11, 2010
In Lethbridge we had to go into the "city centre" as they quaintly phrase it. Again, more trouble following the signs. Two major highways converge, AB 4 and AB 5, and follow along the city streets. Just before the corner where they turn to the right, the sign, small, is up on a pole partially hidden by a tree branch. I pity anyone who is driving alone or can't pay attention to the signs because of the traffic. Then at the corner the turn lane and right lane were blocked off for paving. Donna had to make the right turn from the left hand lane. Good thing the Canadians are polite, no one honked or yelled.
Well the hotel was very nice, a nine story tower with eight rooms each on the 2nd to 9th floor, set around the central elevator and staircase. We were on the 7th floor with a view to the south, felt like a penthouse.
Tomorrow we get back to the USA, hoorah!
Well the hotel was very nice, a nine story tower with eight rooms each on the 2nd to 9th floor, set around the central elevator and staircase. We were on the 7th floor with a view to the south, felt like a penthouse.
Tomorrow we get back to the USA, hoorah!
Valley View to Lethbridge, BC, Canada - August 10, 2010
Today we had an even longer ride, 854 km = 530 miles. And we had to negotiate our way around Edmonton and Calgary to get to Lethbridge in southern Alberta. The good highway on this day helped us do the trip in 8 1/2 hours. The weather was sunny and warmer as we went south.
I have not been good at navigating some of the roads in Canada because the signage can be misleading or absent or not placed in a good spot.
Example: to find a rest area and visitor center, the sign was 2 km from the exit, then at the exit the road split for left and right turns. The sign for the visitor center was small with two other destinations on it and placed right where the road split. Good luck being in the correct lane. Following the arrow over the highway on a local road, the next sign directed us back on the main highway ramp going in the opposite direction for 2 km to the visitor center. If you do that you're going the way back and have to u-turn at the next exit, wherever that may be. We didn't bother.
When we first came into Canada back in June, the same thing happened at a different exit and Ernie had to get the 5th-wheel RV back around to get us going the right way and we never did find the rest area.
I have not been good at navigating some of the roads in Canada because the signage can be misleading or absent or not placed in a good spot.
Example: to find a rest area and visitor center, the sign was 2 km from the exit, then at the exit the road split for left and right turns. The sign for the visitor center was small with two other destinations on it and placed right where the road split. Good luck being in the correct lane. Following the arrow over the highway on a local road, the next sign directed us back on the main highway ramp going in the opposite direction for 2 km to the visitor center. If you do that you're going the way back and have to u-turn at the next exit, wherever that may be. We didn't bother.
When we first came into Canada back in June, the same thing happened at a different exit and Ernie had to get the 5th-wheel RV back around to get us going the right way and we never did find the rest area.
Valley View, Alberta - August 9, 2010
Our distance today was the longest so far on this trip. 694 km = 431 miles. Since we could keep up a good speed we got to Valley View in under 8 hours. On our way up to Alaska we had stopped here with the Griffins for lunch and gas. This time we stayed at a new motel, Western Valley Inn. After grabbing a sandwich for supper we went to a gas station for a fill-up. Full service, no extra charge.
Donna asked where we could find a carwash in town and the attendent directed us up a dirt street to an automatic, 24-hour carwash. OK, we drove up to the building, and the sign directed us around back where we used a credit card to pay for the $15.00 deluxe touchless wash and wax. Everything went all right but the van will need special attention when we get home to get the shine back.
Donna asked where we could find a carwash in town and the attendent directed us up a dirt street to an automatic, 24-hour carwash. OK, we drove up to the building, and the sign directed us around back where we used a credit card to pay for the $15.00 deluxe touchless wash and wax. Everything went all right but the van will need special attention when we get home to get the shine back.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Dawson Creek, BC, Canada - August 9, 2010
The city of Dawson Creek is the beginning of the Alaska Highway, Mile 0(Zero). Originally the start was in Ft. Nelson because there was a rough trail to there from Dawson Creek. Again, like other cities in the Canadian Northwest, energy businesses are prominent. There are processing plants in the valley and lots of traffic with trucks of all kinds.
We made a short detour here to go back to the RV park where we stayed on the way up. I had left my shower shoes in the shower there. The woman at the office said that as far as she knew, nobody had turned any in. She also said that she had just been there since July and we were there in late June. Oh, well.
Soon after leaving Dawson Creek we crossed into Alberta and the highway improved. Four lanes, much of it divided and the speed limit up to 110 km/h, about 66 mph.
Beaverlodge is a small town with a big wooden beaver. Donna snapped this with two people in front to show the size of the monster.
We made a short detour here to go back to the RV park where we stayed on the way up. I had left my shower shoes in the shower there. The woman at the office said that as far as she knew, nobody had turned any in. She also said that she had just been there since July and we were there in late June. Oh, well.
Soon after leaving Dawson Creek we crossed into Alberta and the highway improved. Four lanes, much of it divided and the speed limit up to 110 km/h, about 66 mph.
Beaverlodge is a small town with a big wooden beaver. Donna snapped this with two people in front to show the size of the monster.
Ft. Nelson to Valley View, Alberta - August 9, 2010
As I wrote in the previous blog it was raining when we got up and had breakfast, packed the van and got gasoline in Ft. Nelson. The ride south through British Columbia was nice, the rain let up as we got to the Alberta province line.
Here's a look at the sky as we drove. Also, note the wide mowed areas to each side of the road.
We really haven't had to deal with much traffic all the way from Valdez, Alaska, although a lot of the vehicles are RVs and tandem trailer trucks. There are passing lanes on many of the uphill sections and in other passing areas, most slower traffic would pull over a little and slow down to let us pass by.
We stopped at a roadside restaurant, "The Shepard's Inn" (google it), near Ft. St. John in British Columbia, Mile 72 on the Alaska Highway. That's how many businesses put their location, mile such and such on the Alaska Highway. Anyway, this inn had a style that was different than most that we visited. The restrooms were just inside the front door and they didn't put a sign out saying, "Restrooms are for customers only". The dining room was small and clean, a couple of tables occupied at 1:15 PM. The lady at the register asked if she could help us. At first we were only going to get a soft drink but when we found out that the soup was corn chowder, Donna asked for a bowl to go.
Right away they put up a good-sized styrofoam bowl with the chowder and a white paper bag with a spoon and crackers. I drove from there and Donna started on the chowder. She showed me how loaded it was with corn, celery and bacon. After she ate half she put the lid on, saying "That's enough, will you eat the rest?" "Sure, when you drive." It was delicious.
Here's a look at the sky as we drove. Also, note the wide mowed areas to each side of the road.
We really haven't had to deal with much traffic all the way from Valdez, Alaska, although a lot of the vehicles are RVs and tandem trailer trucks. There are passing lanes on many of the uphill sections and in other passing areas, most slower traffic would pull over a little and slow down to let us pass by.
We stopped at a roadside restaurant, "The Shepard's Inn" (google it), near Ft. St. John in British Columbia, Mile 72 on the Alaska Highway. That's how many businesses put their location, mile such and such on the Alaska Highway. Anyway, this inn had a style that was different than most that we visited. The restrooms were just inside the front door and they didn't put a sign out saying, "Restrooms are for customers only". The dining room was small and clean, a couple of tables occupied at 1:15 PM. The lady at the register asked if she could help us. At first we were only going to get a soft drink but when we found out that the soup was corn chowder, Donna asked for a bowl to go.
Right away they put up a good-sized styrofoam bowl with the chowder and a white paper bag with a spoon and crackers. I drove from there and Donna started on the chowder. She showed me how loaded it was with corn, celery and bacon. After she ate half she put the lid on, saying "That's enough, will you eat the rest?" "Sure, when you drive." It was delicious.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Watson Lake to Ft. Nelson - August 8, 2010
Part of the Alaska Highway from Watson Lake, Yukon to Ft. Nelson, British Columbia has a variety of scenery. Some mountain ranges can be seen, river valleys, however, we didn't see them. It rained most of the day, heavy, then light, then spinkles then heavy again. Low clouds hid any long views we might have seen and water camouflaged the potholes in the pavement.
When we pulled into Ft. Nelson we were relieved to have the worst part of the Alaska Highway behind us. The Woodlands Inn was our destination at the eastern edge of the town. This is a fairly new hotel, just over 10 years old, with a new restaurant added on and a new big building going up next to it.
The area is booming with oil and natural gas exploration and pumping. Many work trucks were parked at the inn and many more in town. Not just pick-up trucks but large pick-up trucks with equipment of all kinds on them. Signs in the entry ways read: "Please take off muddy boots before entering".
Of course it was raining when we got to town, rained all night and most of the next day. They need the rain further west where the fires are.
When we pulled into Ft. Nelson we were relieved to have the worst part of the Alaska Highway behind us. The Woodlands Inn was our destination at the eastern edge of the town. This is a fairly new hotel, just over 10 years old, with a new restaurant added on and a new big building going up next to it.
The area is booming with oil and natural gas exploration and pumping. Many work trucks were parked at the inn and many more in town. Not just pick-up trucks but large pick-up trucks with equipment of all kinds on them. Signs in the entry ways read: "Please take off muddy boots before entering".
Of course it was raining when we got to town, rained all night and most of the next day. They need the rain further west where the fires are.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Watson Lake to Fort Nelson - August 8, 2010
Watson Lake, Yukon - August 7, 2010
When we drove into Watson Lake one of the first signs we saw was, "Fire Information" with an arrow pointing to a small building. the main drag is the Alaska Highway and almost all businesses are on it along a two mile stretch. In one block are the three public lodging and one of the two eating establishments. There was a faint odor of burning wood from the forest fires in British Columbia to the south. Each of the hotels had "no vacancy" signs out. We had called one motel a little way back before we left Alaska and they were already booked with firefighters from all around staying for the duration of the fire season.
At our hotel, The Big Horn, we had a room with a view, a view of an unfinished cement block wall next door, some new building in progress. The linen smelled like smoke and the room like disinfectant. Well, what could you expect?
By the time evening came the desk clerk was trying to get two firefighters to share a room.
Donna took these photos of sunset at 9:40 PM. We haven't seen a sunset like this for over a month.
At our hotel, The Big Horn, we had a room with a view, a view of an unfinished cement block wall next door, some new building in progress. The linen smelled like smoke and the room like disinfectant. Well, what could you expect?
By the time evening came the desk clerk was trying to get two firefighters to share a room.
Donna took these photos of sunset at 9:40 PM. We haven't seen a sunset like this for over a month.
Whitehorse to Watson Lake, August 7, 2010
On the Alaska Highway you have limited choices for overnight stopping points. On the way up with the Griffins we saw many RV parks but there was a wide range of quality. Same with motels and hotels coming back, in fact there may be fewer of these. Rather than taking a chance of not having a room each night we booked places right down to the US before leaving Alaska.
Watson Lake was the proof of this being a wise move.
Before that part though, Donna wanted me to write about the wonderful vegetable beef soup we had on the way to Watson Lake at Dawson Peaks Resort and RV park near Teslin, Yukon.
As we drove along the highway towards the junction with Route 37 we wondered what the situation would be. The businesses around there seemed to be open. Then right at the intersection a sign read, "Route 37 is closed". We went by slowly and could see a backup of vehicles just past the corner leading south. We had heard that from time to time convoys of waiting travelers would be taken through if the visibility and fire danger was not a factor.
Three motorcycle riders turned that way behind us as we went on to Watson Lake.
Watson Lake was the proof of this being a wise move.
Before that part though, Donna wanted me to write about the wonderful vegetable beef soup we had on the way to Watson Lake at Dawson Peaks Resort and RV park near Teslin, Yukon.
As we drove along the highway towards the junction with Route 37 we wondered what the situation would be. The businesses around there seemed to be open. Then right at the intersection a sign read, "Route 37 is closed". We went by slowly and could see a backup of vehicles just past the corner leading south. We had heard that from time to time convoys of waiting travelers would be taken through if the visibility and fire danger was not a factor.
Three motorcycle riders turned that way behind us as we went on to Watson Lake.
Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada - August 6, 2010
We got to Whitehorse in the middle of the afternoon and were glad that our hotel was easy to find, just down Two Mile Hill from the Alaska Highway. It was a Westmark, The Westmark Klondike. As with the Westmark in Tok, it was a Holland-American Line establishment and a bus tour was just coming in at the same time. Many of the rooms near ours had luggage sitting outside in the hall. Donna commented about how that reminded her of the cruise we took years ago.
We had dinner in the hotel and then out to look around Whitehorse a little. There is an old steamboat that had been used on the Yukon River on the shore as a landmark and historical item. The Yukon River has been tamed with a dam and power plant in the 1950s.
We had dinner in the hotel and then out to look around Whitehorse a little. There is an old steamboat that had been used on the Yukon River on the shore as a landmark and historical item. The Yukon River has been tamed with a dam and power plant in the 1950s.
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Tok to Whitehorse - August 6, 2010
The morning started out rainy as we left Tok, Alaska. The border of Canada is around 150 miles to the east and as we got closer the rain slowly let up. Good old dry Canada. The time zones change at the border from Alaska Time to Pacific Time. That seems to add an hour to the driving time, just an illusion. The distance from Tok to Whitehorse is 387 miles but it takes eight hours to drive.
In Beaver Creek, Yukon we stopped at the Visitor Center for a comfort stop and visited with the host there. He told us that the Taylor Highway in Alaska was closed again because of washouts. The Taylor Highway goes north from the Alaska Highway west of Tok. He also confirmed that the route south through British Columbia to Washington State, Route 37, The Cassier Highway, was also closed because of wildfires and smoke. We were warned about that closure back in Anchorage on August 1 at the AAA office.
That was not the way we would be traveling but we would be passing by the intersection of 37 and The Alaska Highway the following day.
From the Canadian Border to Destruction Bay, YT (look it up) the Alaska Highway is terrible. There are frost heaves, longitudinal (the long way in the lane) breaks in the pavement and rough patch jobs. The posted speed can be as high as 90 km/h but rarely can that be done. Many places the speed is reduced to 30 km/h due to the damage in the roadway.
From Destruction Bay to Whitehorse the road is better and the kilometers go by quicker.
In Beaver Creek, Yukon we stopped at the Visitor Center for a comfort stop and visited with the host there. He told us that the Taylor Highway in Alaska was closed again because of washouts. The Taylor Highway goes north from the Alaska Highway west of Tok. He also confirmed that the route south through British Columbia to Washington State, Route 37, The Cassier Highway, was also closed because of wildfires and smoke. We were warned about that closure back in Anchorage on August 1 at the AAA office.
That was not the way we would be traveling but we would be passing by the intersection of 37 and The Alaska Highway the following day.
From the Canadian Border to Destruction Bay, YT (look it up) the Alaska Highway is terrible. There are frost heaves, longitudinal (the long way in the lane) breaks in the pavement and rough patch jobs. The posted speed can be as high as 90 km/h but rarely can that be done. Many places the speed is reduced to 30 km/h due to the damage in the roadway.
From Destruction Bay to Whitehorse the road is better and the kilometers go by quicker.
Tok, Alaska - August 5, 2010
The Westmark Inn is in an area of trees and sand. When we arrived some men were spraying around an area near one of the buildings. It looked like a insecticide fog. As I wrote in the previous post, the mosquitos and no-see-ums (also known as white-socks) were in abundance, getting in our faces, in the car, and in the motel room. Donna had purchased a "bug zapper" in Soldatna that looks like a small tennis racket. It uses two batteries and has a wire grid that "zaps" the bugs when they touch it. The result is a satisfying "snap" or two and the bugs are ash. We used it in the motel room to clear out any flyers that had come in. Quite entertaining and useful.
Valdez to Tok - August 5, 2010
Still raining this day. We took our time and left about 10:30 AM. Sorry to leave this nice hotel, expensive but nice. The distance to Tok is 254 miles via the Richardson Highway and the Tok Cut-off. Because of the rain and clouds we didn't expect to see much beyond the roadside. Many of the highways here and in Canada have very wide verges, sometimes as much as tripling the width of the road itself. Of course, other times the road narrows to barely two lanes because of canyons, hills and dropoffs.
The only sight of note was some views of the Alaska Pipeline off from the highway about a mile at least. There is one pipeline pump station with warning signs all around not to approach.
On this part of the highway there are not many travelers services, two or three gas stations at Glenallen, some RV Parks and not much else. At one intersection there was a closed gas staion with just the letters ECO left on the pump, from TEXACO.
At Tok (rhymes with "smoke") we stayed ay the Westmark Inn. As we found out it is run by Holland-America Line so their bus tours have stopover accomodations. When we were in Seward last week we saw the Statendam cruise ship, also run by Holland-America Line.
After we checked in and wanted to go to eat supper, Donna decided she would walk the mile to the restaurant, Fast Eddy's, a landmark in Tok. It was sprinkling and sunny at the same time and the mosquitos and no-see-ums were out in force, the worst we've had this trip.
I drove along in a short time and picked her up near the restaurant. She had been swatting at the critters all along the walk.
In Tok and many other towns in Alaska there are paved hike/bike trails that follow the highways which Donna ands Kay took advantage of during our stay. Often on the opposite side there would be a track for ATV's and dirt bikes.
The fireweed is seen all through Alaska along the roadsides and especially where there has been a forest fire.
The only sight of note was some views of the Alaska Pipeline off from the highway about a mile at least. There is one pipeline pump station with warning signs all around not to approach.
On this part of the highway there are not many travelers services, two or three gas stations at Glenallen, some RV Parks and not much else. At one intersection there was a closed gas staion with just the letters ECO left on the pump, from TEXACO.
At Tok (rhymes with "smoke") we stayed ay the Westmark Inn. As we found out it is run by Holland-America Line so their bus tours have stopover accomodations. When we were in Seward last week we saw the Statendam cruise ship, also run by Holland-America Line.
After we checked in and wanted to go to eat supper, Donna decided she would walk the mile to the restaurant, Fast Eddy's, a landmark in Tok. It was sprinkling and sunny at the same time and the mosquitos and no-see-ums were out in force, the worst we've had this trip.
I drove along in a short time and picked her up near the restaurant. She had been swatting at the critters all along the walk.
In Tok and many other towns in Alaska there are paved hike/bike trails that follow the highways which Donna ands Kay took advantage of during our stay. Often on the opposite side there would be a track for ATV's and dirt bikes.
The fireweed is seen all through Alaska along the roadsides and especially where there has been a forest fire.
Rainy Day in Valdez - August 4, 2010
We saw in Valdez a museum with a small old fishing boat out front. This is the Valdez Museum. For the admission price you can walk around and see exhibits about the history of Valdez, primarily since 1898 and the Klondike Gold Rush, which brought many people through the town.
One of the interesting sights was this fire engine.
One of the interesting sights was this fire engine.
In Valdez - August 4, 2010
Overnight rain came into Valdez, we had been told that rain is what Valdez is noted for. One difference between rain here and in New York is that there is rarely any wind with the rain here. All July and into August we have had many days with rainy periods but no thunderstorms, the temperatures stay quite stable day and night.
OK. A rainy day in Valdez. What to do? We have all day and can't even see across the bay today. In the morning we continued to contact motels across Cananda and into The USA for our trip back.
Donna went to the desk clerk here, and lo and behold, they had a room available for the second night and it's a whirlpool room and a corner room with two windows facing the harbor and a small inlet with a Coast Guard cutter, CGC Long Island, docked.
We called the hotel where we had a reservation and cancelled it. Then we moved our stuff down the hall three doors to the new room, sweet.
OK. A rainy day in Valdez. What to do? We have all day and can't even see across the bay today. In the morning we continued to contact motels across Cananda and into The USA for our trip back.
Donna went to the desk clerk here, and lo and behold, they had a room available for the second night and it's a whirlpool room and a corner room with two windows facing the harbor and a small inlet with a Coast Guard cutter, CGC Long Island, docked.
We called the hotel where we had a reservation and cancelled it. Then we moved our stuff down the hall three doors to the new room, sweet.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Valdez, Alaska - August 3, 2010
Arriving in Valdez about 5:30 PM, we had passed by the sign marking the road to Old Valdez, which was abandoned after the 1964 earthquake and subsequent tsunamis. We also passed the road that goes to the oil pipeline terminal on the opposite side of the bay from Valdez. The weather had been quite good all the way from Anchorage as you can see from the pictures and videos.
In Valdez we found our hotel, The Best Western Harbor Inn, right on the shore next to the small boat harbor. Just across the harbor was a fish-processing and packing company, Peter Pan.
When we made the reservation for tonight we had asked for two nights but there were no vacancies for the second night. Donna asked again today and still nothing.
We went to a restaurant for dinner and afterwards walked along the edge of the harbor where people bring their day's catch from the ocean.
Here I am standing in front of the boats.
In Valdez we found our hotel, The Best Western Harbor Inn, right on the shore next to the small boat harbor. Just across the harbor was a fish-processing and packing company, Peter Pan.
When we made the reservation for tonight we had asked for two nights but there were no vacancies for the second night. Donna asked again today and still nothing.
We went to a restaurant for dinner and afterwards walked along the edge of the harbor where people bring their day's catch from the ocean.
Here I am standing in front of the boats.
Bridal Veil Falls - August 3, 2010
Richardson Highway - August 3, 2010
Turning south from Glenallen onto the Richardson Highway, we headed to Valdez, Alaska. Donna had been told that she must see Valdez during this trip and this was our chance. We had booked two nights in Valdez but had to choose two different hotels because of availability. More about how that turned out later.
One of the few side roads from the Richardson is the McCarthy Road that goes east towards the former mining town of Kennicott. Its a 60 mile road that gets progressively worse and takes 3 hours one way. Then you take a shuttle to the old copper mine area. We decided to skip that excursion.
The distance from Glenallen to Valdez is 115 miles and it was all wonderful. Good road, mostly, great scenery, even a friendly "stop/slow guy" who saw the NY license plate and came over to talk with us while we waited. He was from the Mohawk Valley area and after 21 years in the Air force he now works for the Alaska Highway Dept.
One of the few side roads from the Richardson is the McCarthy Road that goes east towards the former mining town of Kennicott. Its a 60 mile road that gets progressively worse and takes 3 hours one way. Then you take a shuttle to the old copper mine area. We decided to skip that excursion.
The distance from Glenallen to Valdez is 115 miles and it was all wonderful. Good road, mostly, great scenery, even a friendly "stop/slow guy" who saw the NY license plate and came over to talk with us while we waited. He was from the Mohawk Valley area and after 21 years in the Air force he now works for the Alaska Highway Dept.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Glenn Highway - Alaska Range 8-3-2010
About ten miles east of Glenallen we had a clear view of several peaks of the Alaska Range. The furthest left is, Mt. Sanford, 16,237 ft., right is Mt. Drum, 12,010 ft.
In this video, Mt. Wrangell is seen to the right as a large snow-covered mound. It rises to 14,163 ft. and is active with steam vents.
In this video, Mt. Wrangell is seen to the right as a large snow-covered mound. It rises to 14,163 ft. and is active with steam vents.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Glenn Highway, Anchorage to Glenallen, 8-3-2010
On Tuesday we left Anchorage and the madness of the biggest city in Alaska. Six lane freeways, impatient drivers, one way streets, and best of all, a moose right next to an off-ramp nibbling on tree leaves.
Further along to the east we had these views of the Matanuska Glacier.
As we approached Mile 113 from Anchorage we came alongside Sheep Mountain with this distinctive coloration, caused by gymsum stained with iron oxide.
Further along to the east we had these views of the Matanuska Glacier.
As we approached Mile 113 from Anchorage we came alongside Sheep Mountain with this distinctive coloration, caused by gymsum stained with iron oxide.
Bald Eagle Chicks - 7-31-2010
After the boat tour we were back at the parking lot and saw this Bald Eagle nest with two chicks.
Update on the Four Amigos 8-5-2010
When this trip was planned during the winter and spring, The Griffins and the Brighams had arranged to stay in Alaska until August 4th and then come back to the USA and head down to Utah and Arizona for sightseeing and to visit Kay's sister in Arizona. From my earlier posts you may remember that that sister, Shirley, had come to Alaska also, and is still here.
Since Kay's niece, Sandy, who is Shirley's daughter, is having continuing medical treatment they want to stay in Alaska longer and the trip to the Southwest would not happen. Donna and I decided that we would begin traveling home this week and see some sights along the way.
Today, we are in Valdez, Alaska. We drove down from Anchorage on Tuesday and stayed here two nights. Tonight we'll stay in Tok, Alaska and if the sky is clear we might see the Northern Lights.
Since Kay's niece, Sandy, who is Shirley's daughter, is having continuing medical treatment they want to stay in Alaska longer and the trip to the Southwest would not happen. Donna and I decided that we would begin traveling home this week and see some sights along the way.
Today, we are in Valdez, Alaska. We drove down from Anchorage on Tuesday and stayed here two nights. Tonight we'll stay in Tok, Alaska and if the sky is clear we might see the Northern Lights.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Steller Sea Lions - Part 2 - 7 31, 2010
More video of the sea lions. The Alaska Sealife Center has live webcams on Chiswell Island, another rookery for sea lions.
Steller Sea Lions - 7-31-2010
Here in the bay there was this colony of Steller Sea Lions on one outcropping. The name "Steller" does not refer to stars but to the naturalist Georg Steller who first described them in 1741. They are an endangered species with declining numbers in the Aleutian Islands particularly.
The sea lions migrate southward in winter. On these rock cliffs were hundreds of birds also spending the summer.
The sea lions migrate southward in winter. On these rock cliffs were hundreds of birds also spending the summer.
Ressurection Bay - Sea Otter No. 1
Just out of the small boat harbor we were treated to the sight of this sea otter relaxing on the surface. The ranger on board our tour, Jim, told us that the sea otter had virtually disappeared from Alaskan waters in the 1860s due to the enormous numbers taken by Russian fur traders. The Tsar was happy to get the money from the USA for Alaska in 1867.
The sea otter is insulated and bouyant because of its fur, which is the densest of any animal, up to one million strands of hair per square inch
The sea otter is insulated and bouyant because of its fur, which is the densest of any animal, up to one million strands of hair per square inch
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
On Seward Highway - 8-1-2010
About 15 miles north of Seward, just when Donna was cooling down from her walk I saw what I thought was a moose or two in a pond beside the road. "Moose", I called out. By the time Donna looked over that way we were by them at 60 miles an hour, going downhill. I pulled into a parking lot at the bottom that was for a trailhead leading away from the pond. We couldn't see anything because of the brush and trees. Going back out on the highway I turned south and back up the hill. Then we could see two moose calves in the water and lilypads. Donna said, "There's a big one on the shore in the trees." I pulled off the road where I could get the Toyota completely off the road. Donna got out and walked down to where the roadside barricade overlooked the pond and saw the cow and two calves.
Leaving Seward - 8-1-2010
Donna said she wanted to have her regular two-mile walk before we drove back to Sterling. OK, where? Right alongside the Seward Highway there is a paved bike/hike path, as we have seen in many communities in Alaska. The last time we were here she measured out from one point to another for two miles, now she walked it! The sun was out and breezes were low. She got warm.
Sunday in Seward - August 1, 2010
Is it really August. We understand that much of the east coast of the United States and particularly the Finger Lakes of New York have been having very warm and humid weather; thunderstorms and flash flood warnings, no extra charge.
Here on the Kenai the weather has been more temperate, much more, almost tropical. Well, not as warm as the tropics but rain has fallen almost every day with much cloudiness and temps in the 50s and 60s. The forest fire threat has been low here all month.
Anyway more about that later.
Donna and I stayed in Seward overnight after the boat tour. We wanted to see some more of this area of the coast and enjoy the town and harbor. On Sunday morning there were low-hanging clouds in the hills above the harbor, by 10 AM the sky was clearing.
Before leaving we drove south along the strip between the shore and the steep hillsides, all the results of glaciation. This maybe one of the few places to see a sign like this.
Please note the small sign at the bottom.
Here on the Kenai the weather has been more temperate, much more, almost tropical. Well, not as warm as the tropics but rain has fallen almost every day with much cloudiness and temps in the 50s and 60s. The forest fire threat has been low here all month.
Anyway more about that later.
Donna and I stayed in Seward overnight after the boat tour. We wanted to see some more of this area of the coast and enjoy the town and harbor. On Sunday morning there were low-hanging clouds in the hills above the harbor, by 10 AM the sky was clearing.
Before leaving we drove south along the strip between the shore and the steep hillsides, all the results of glaciation. This maybe one of the few places to see a sign like this.
Please note the small sign at the bottom.
upcoming videos
For the tour of Kenai Fjords Donna took the stills and I videoed. The videos take several extra steps to prepare for the blog compared to the photos. I will be working on some for that tour and the next day and post them soon.
Resurrection Bay - Kay's sister
Monday, August 2, 2010
Resurrection Bay - Glaciers 7-31-2010
On the east side of the bay there are three Alpine glaciers. These are in high valleys or troughs which they helped form. They don't reach the water.
Around a point in the bay on the west side is Bear Glacier, a tidewater glacier that terminates in water. The dark line in front of the glacier is its terminal moraine, rocks left when the glacier began to retreat, the face is now in Bear Glacier Lake, formed by the moraine. The dark line on the glacier is thick sedimentation. Google "Bear Glacier" for some satellite photos
Around a point in the bay on the west side is Bear Glacier, a tidewater glacier that terminates in water. The dark line in front of the glacier is its terminal moraine, rocks left when the glacier began to retreat, the face is now in Bear Glacier Lake, formed by the moraine. The dark line on the glacier is thick sedimentation. Google "Bear Glacier" for some satellite photos
Eagles and Sea Lions - 7-31-2010
Resurrection Bay - 7-31-2010
As the boat pulled away from the small boat harbor in Seward the captain and guide pointed out a large freighter outside the seawall. She told us that it was being loaded with Alaskan coal and would take about five days to fill. The coal is brought to Seward by train and stockpiled until there is enough for the freighter.
A short distance away the captain pointed out a sea otter on the surface, she said it might be sleeping. The sea otter did look at us and swim around but did not seem bothered by the boat.
A short distance away the captain pointed out a sea otter on the surface, she said it might be sleeping. The sea otter did look at us and swim around but did not seem bothered by the boat.
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